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Torres del Paine

March 22, 2014
 

Picture-heavy and word-light post (hooray!).   

After reaching Punta Arenas, I had some backtracking to do.  Dad and I hadn't made good enough time on the ride down to stop in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine and had to skip it in order for him to make his flight.  I had stayed in Punta Arenas to look for another motorcycle to continue the trip, but first order of business was to go to Torres del Paine.  For years I had drooled over pictures of the park, and knew that if I ever had an opportunity to visit such a fascinating place there was no option but to go.  

Mount Almirante Nieto

Mount Almirante Nieto

Arriving in late afternoon, I made camp the first night at Las Torres campsite at the base of Mount Almirante Nieto.  While fussing over a pot of beans that seemed like it would never get cooked, a couple of guys who were camping nearby with a large group approached me and asked if I wanted to join them later for some conversation and pisco.  Of course I said yes, and after choking down the half-cooked beans I grabbed my bottle of wine and joined them.  Under the dark silhouette of the mountains and and a crystal-clear view of the Milky Way overhead, we laughed and counted shooting stars well into the night.

Our group consisted of three Chileans from Punta Arenas, three more from Concepción, an Italian girl living in Santiago, a Japanese girl who didn't know a lick of Spanish, the occasional appearance of a guy from Seattle whose laugh was as loud as a car horn, and a Texan who needed a shave.  The best part was that everyone had arrived either alone or in groups of 2 or 3, but we got along so well that we decided to stick together.  In the morning we made our way up to the lookout of the Torres and adopted a couple from Santiago/Easter Island into our family.

Monte Almirante Nieto and Lago Nordenskjold.  Click for larger version

Unfortunately a huge storm moved in right as we reached the Torres, thanks to the ever-unpredictable Patagonian weather.  Even though this was the middle of summer in the Southern Hemisphere we encountered sleet and snow at the top of the mountain.

Torres del Paine...covered in snow clouds.  Click for a larger version

 La Familia taking shelter from the snow and wind at the base of the Torres.  From left to right: Oscar, Polette (a.k.a. Pollo), Christóbal, Tiziana, Ricardo, Sergio, Paula, Rodrigo, and Sergio

La Familia taking shelter from the snow and wind at the base of the Torres.  From left to right: Oscar, Polette (a.k.a. Pollo), Christóbal, Tiziana, Ricardo, Sergio, Paula, Rodrigo, and Sergio

Sign.jpg
 We found our long-lost Japanese sister, Norie, on the trail from the Torres lookout

We found our long-lost Japanese sister, Norie, on the trail from the Torres lookout

 Caballos resting beneath Monte Almirante Nieto

Caballos resting beneath Monte Almirante Nieto

 La Familia at Refugio Chileno

La Familia at Refugio Chileno

Rolling stones (1280x859).jpg
1921160_10203225766545497_634270219_o.jpg
 La familia representing the flag of Magallanes (Chile's southernmost region where Torres del Paine and Punta Arenas are located)

La familia representing the flag of Magallanes (Chile's southernmost region where Torres del Paine and Punta Arenas are located)

 La Familia taking shelter from the snow and wind at the base of the Torres.  From left to right: Oscar, Polette (a.k.a. Pollo), Christóbal, Tiziana, Ricardo, Sergio, Paula, Rodrigo, and Sergio Sign.jpg  We found our long-lost Japanese sister, Norie, on the trail from the Torres lookout  Caballos resting beneath Monte Almirante Nieto  La Familia at Refugio Chileno Rolling stones (1280x859).jpg 1921160_10203225766545497_634270219_o.jpg  La familia representing the flag of Magallanes (Chile's southernmost region where Torres del Paine and Punta Arenas are located)

Due to the weather disappointment at the Torres and lots of urging by my new family to continue the hike with them, I decided to stick around for a few more days.

GOPR4988 (1280x915).jpg
 Sergio, Rodrigo, and Sergio

Sergio, Rodrigo, and Sergio

GOPR4221 (1280x836).jpg
GOPR4224 (1280x890).jpg
G0034968 (1280x960).jpg
 Sergio, Christóbal, and Rodrigo.  Paine Grande is in the background

Sergio, Christóbal, and Rodrigo.  Paine Grande is in the background

 Paine Grande.  You could say I was happy to be there.

Paine Grande.  You could say I was happy to be there.

tl tent.gif
GOPR4988 (1280x915).jpg  Sergio, Rodrigo, and Sergio GOPR4221 (1280x836).jpg GOPR4224 (1280x890).jpg G0034968 (1280x960).jpg  Sergio, Christóbal, and Rodrigo.  Paine Grande is in the background  Paine Grande.  You could say I was happy to be there. tl tent.gif

Torres del Paine, Cuernos del Paine, Paine Grande, Valle Frances.  A quick google search of any of these names and you'll understand why I was happy to extend my trip.

Valle Francés

IMG_5861 (1280x855).jpg
 Christóbal and "The Big Paine"

Christóbal and "The Big Paine"

IMG_5864 (1280x853).jpg
 Lago Pehoé as seen from Valle Francés

Lago Pehoé as seen from Valle Francés

IMG_5954 (1280x854).jpg
IMG_5861 (1280x855).jpg  Christóbal and "The Big Paine" IMG_5864 (1280x853).jpg  Lago Pehoé as seen from Valle Francés IMG_5954 (1280x854).jpg
gif rio.gif
Gif waterfall.gif
tl chicos.gif
 Chilean Hawk (  Accipiter chilensis  )

Chilean Hawk (Accipiter chilensis)

gif rio.gif Gif waterfall.gif tl chicos.gif  Chilean Hawk (  Accipiter chilensis  )

Glaciar Grey.  Click to see larger version

Glaciar Grey is in the background.  The wind was at a constant 65 mph at the lookout that morning

Glaciar Grey is in the background.  The wind was at a constant 65 mph at the lookout that morning

Paine Grande and Cuernos del Paine from Campsite Paine Grande

Paine Grande and Cuernos del Paine from Campsite Paine Grande

We finished the trek with a very, VERY windy boat ride across Lago Pehoé before catching a bus to Puerto Natales where showers, pizza, and beer awaited us.

 Pollo and Kaiser = BFFs 4 eva

Pollo and Kaiser = BFFs 4 eva

 From the deck of the catamaran across Lago Pehoé: Keith, Pollo, Sergio, and Christóbal

From the deck of the catamaran across Lago Pehoé: Keith, Pollo, Sergio, and Christóbal

 Pollo and Kaiser = BFFs 4 eva  From the deck of the catamaran across Lago Pehoé: Keith, Pollo, Sergio, and Christóbal

View from Lago Pehoé. Click for larger version

In Travel, Ride Reports Tags patagonia, Chile, camping, South America, photography
← SacrificesAmanecer cusqueño →
#nationaldogday (as if I needed an excuse)

Pic by @maxxintx
Good morning from #Texas
Retrato del Perezoso de la Amazonia (Amazonia Sloth Portrait) #tbt
This little lady finally woke up from hibernation, told me she was hungry for empanadas.
#mcm (that is, #monkey crush Monday): This time last year I was lucky enough to get to volunteer with rescued animals like Ricky the #CapuchinMonkey at Zoorefugio Tarqui in the Ecuadorian Amazon.  Head to the URL in the comments below to find out how
#tbt in #Chile (and #peru!). In parts of the #Atacama #Desert, it doesn't rain for years on end, and the land looks like Mars than Earth.  You can ride for hundreds of miles without seeing a single tree, cactus, or blade of grass out here.
#tbt in #Chile week 2: Shared my lunch with this dark-haired cutie one afternoon, but I didn't have room to stuff in her my jacket and take her with me :'(
#wcw
Going back to #Chile for #tbt : Moonrise in the #Atacama #Desert with my friend Oristárco from #Santiago.
#tbt "Camping behind a gas station in Arica, on the Chile/Perú border". This one goes out to anyone who ever had to rough it while out on the road and knows that real international travel isn't always as glamorous as our instagram ac
It's a big world, and you'll never see most of it if you only take paved roads. (#tbt Andes Mountains, Ayacucho Region, Peru)
#nationaldogday (as if I needed an excuse)

Pic by @maxxintx Good morning from #Texas Retrato del Perezoso de la Amazonia (Amazonia Sloth Portrait) #tbt This little lady finally woke up from hibernation, told me she was hungry for empanadas. #mcm (that is, #monkey crush Monday): This time last year I was lucky enough to get to volunteer with rescued animals like Ricky the #CapuchinMonkey at Zoorefugio Tarqui in the Ecuadorian Amazon.  Head to the URL in the comments below to find out how #tbt in #Chile (and #peru!). In parts of the #Atacama #Desert, it doesn't rain for years on end, and the land looks like Mars than Earth.  You can ride for hundreds of miles without seeing a single tree, cactus, or blade of grass out here. #tbt in #Chile week 2: Shared my lunch with this dark-haired cutie one afternoon, but I didn't have room to stuff in her my jacket and take her with me :'( #wcw Going back to #Chile for #tbt : Moonrise in the #Atacama #Desert with my friend Oristárco from #Santiago. #tbt "Camping behind a gas station in Arica, on the Chile/Perú border". This one goes out to anyone who ever had to rough it while out on the road and knows that real international travel isn't always as glamorous as our instagram ac It's a big world, and you'll never see most of it if you only take paved roads. (#tbt Andes Mountains, Ayacucho Region, Peru)

Mantra of Miles: South America Dashboard

Distance traveled: 9871mi/15,886Km

Borders crossed: 11

Nights camped: 31

Empanadas eaten: 84

Got a stat you want to see here?  

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